Varanasi Hotels

There are three main areas to stay. The old part of the city by the ghats, captures the true atmosphere of the city. Many of the budget hotels are in this area. The other two areas are around the railway and bus station, and the spacious Cantonment area, north of the railway station, where most of the higher class hotels are located.

Where to Stay—Lower & Middle

Cantonment Area
This area is north of the Varanasi Junction railway station. Except for in the hotels, there are not many eating places in this area.

Hotel Surya (234-3014,fax: 250-2758: Email: info@hotelsuryavns.com) is a recommended place that has rooms with bath for Rs 350/550 and rooms with A/C for Rs 750/900. It is a peaceful place with a nice garden and a philosophical manager who used to be a tourist guide, so he is very helpful. You can camp on the lawn for Rs 30. It has a good restaurant.
Hotel Shalimar (46227) has rooms with hot water ranging from Rs 200/250 to Rs 350/450. They may give a discount if you ask.
Tourist Dak Bungalow (42182), on The Mall, is a little run-down, but it has a nice garden. The rooms are Rs 200/350 and the dorm beds are Rs 40.
Hotel Temples Town (46582), Patel Nagar, by the station, is a good quiet place with rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 200/275. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel India (250-7593; fax: 250-7598; Web Site: http://www.hotelindiavns.com), 59 Patel Nagar, is a good place with rooms with hot water for Rs 750/850 and Rs 1200/1450 with A/C. Some of the rooms do not have windows. It has a good restaurant.
The nearby well-managed Hotel Vaibav (234-5056; fax: 234-6466) is also good, but slightly cheaper, with clean comfortable rooms for Rs 550/650 and Rs 875/1050 with A/C.

City Centre—Lahurabir Area
The Lahurabir area is fairly convenient for the railway station and bus stand, but is located away from the old city.

GM Guest House (361-292), Chandrika Colony, near the church, has good-sized clean rooms with hot water. Some rooms have a balcony. It is a good place.
The friendly Hotel Buddha (234-3686: Email: hotelbuddha@satyam.net.in) has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 150/175 and rooms with hot water for Rs 250/400. It is in an older building with high ceilings and a verandah. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Barahdari (330-581; fax 330-581), east of Lahurabir, near the GPO, at Maidagin, has comfortable air-cooled rooms for Rs 400/450 and A/C rooms for Rs 600/650. It has a garden and a good vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Varuna (358-524), between the railway station and the ghats, opposite Sigra Police Station, has rooms for Rs 275/350 and Rs 600/650 with A/C. It is in a quiet area.
Hotel Ajaya (220-7763(, Kabir Chaura Rd, has rooms for Rs 250/350 and Rs 550/600 with air-cooling. It is one of the best hotels in the area and is recommended for budget travelers. 24-hour checkout.
The two-star Pradeep Hotel (344963; fax 344-898), at Jagatganj, has rooms with hot water and a TV for Rs 450/500 and Rs 750/850 with A/C.
Hotel Gautam is a good place with clean rooms for Rs 400/450 and Rs 350/400 with A/C. It is a bit overpriced.
Hotel Avaneesh (235-0730), Station Rd, has small, modern, comfortable A/C rooms for Rs 600/750.

Railway and Bus Station Area
There are many cheaper hotels in this area. The Retiring Rooms at the railway station are Rs 125/200 and with A/C Rs 350. A dorm bed is Rs 50. You can get a discount if you stay less than 12 hours.
SN Lodge has rooms with common bath for Rs 90/100 and Rs 1100/130 with bath.
Tourist Bungalow (343-413), off Parade Kothi, Grand Trunk Rd, is the best place in the area. It has rooms ranging from Rs 125/225 to Rs 300/375 and dorm beds are Rs 50. An A/C room is Rs 500/600. It is a popular place and is often full. It has a nice garden and is within walking distance of the railway and bus stations. Touts may bring you to another place called “Tourist Bungalow” which does not have a garden.
Hotel Relax (343-503), by the Tourist Bungalow, has rooms with bath for Rs 150/200 and with air-cooling for Rs 200/275. 24-hour checkout. It is a good alternative, if the Tourist Bungalow is full.
Raj Kamal Hotel has rooms for Rs 110/160.
Hotel Sandona (346-555) has clean basic rooms for Rs 150/200.
Nar India (343-586), Grand Trunk Rd, near the railway station, has a room with common bath with a TV for Rs 175/200, Rs 250/300 with bath, and Rs 400/450 with A/C. 24-hour checkout.

Old City and Ghats Area
The streets are so narrow here that bike-rickshaws cannot fit down the lanes, so you have to be able to carry all your baggage to get a room here. This is where the real budget places are. Many of the places in this area are very basic. This area has a lot of atmosphere and some hotels have great views of the Ganges and the ghats.

Yogi Lodge (239-2588; Email: yogilodge@yahoo.com) is a very popular place. It has basic rooms with common bath and hot showers for Rs 125/150. A dorm bed is Rs 80. If you are a backpacker, this is a popular place to stay and meet people. It is often full. People often do not like this place because it is too basic. Often rickshaw drivers or touts (commission agent) will bring you to some place with a similar name, where they will get a commission. Three different people wanting to come here told me they were brought to three other places by commission agents.
Sadhu Lodge, near the Yogi Lodge, is good, clean place with basic rooms with common bath for Rs 90.
Golden Lodge (323-832), nearby at D8/35 Kalika Lane, is popular and has a rooftop patio. It has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 90 and a room with bath and hot water is Rs 125.
Scindhia Guest House (232-0319; fax 327-317), by Manikarnika Ghat, has a good view of the Ganges. Rooms are Rs 150/200 with common bath and Rs 250 to Rs 275 with bath. An air-cooled room with bath and a balcony is Rs 350. Dorm beds Rs 50. To get to this place you have to walk to Manikarnika Ghat and then up a dirt hill by the river.
Shanti Lodge (322-568), down a road that goes to Manikar­nika Ghat, is a very popular budget place by the burning ghat, with basic rooms with common bath for Rs 80/100 and Rs 140 to Rs 250 for a room with bath. Some of the rooms do not have windows. It has a 24-hour restaurant on the roof which has a great view of the Ganges. It is well-managed and also has a travel agency.
Sandhya Guest House (313-2920, near the Shivala post office, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 90/100 and a room with bath is Rs 110/140. It has a restaurant on the roof.
Trimurti Guest House (322-554), near the Visvanath Temple, is a good place with rooms with common bath for Rs 60/100 and Rs 150 with bath. A dorm bed is Rs 40.
Vishnu Rest House (245-0206) is located right next to the Ganges and has a great view of the river from the terraces. A single room with bath is Rs 100. Double rooms go for between Rs 150 and Rs 300 and have hot water. You can get to this hotel by first going to Dasaswamedha Ghat, you then turn right after reaching the Ganges, and walk a few minutes. Other hotels have similar names to fool you to come to those places.
Kumiko House (324-308), next door, has good views of the Ganges. Small rooms with common bath are Rs 100/130 and Rs 200 with bath. A dorm bed is Rs 40. It is managed by an Indian man and his Japanese wife and is popular with Japanese. These two places are often full.
Sita Guest House has some rooms which have good views of the Ganges. A room with a common bath is Rs 125/200 and a double room with bath and hot water is Rs 350.
Sri Venkateshwar Lodge (239-2357; Email: venlodge@satyam.net.in), 5/64 Dasaswamedha Ghat Road, near Dasaswamedha Ghat, is a good place with clean rooms with common bath for Rs 100/150 and a double room with hot water for Rs 300. It is well-managed.
Alaknanda Guest House (327-177), north of Dasaswamedha Ghat, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 110/140 and Rs 200 for a room with a view of the Ganges, hot water and an air-cooler.
Sun Shiv Hotel (52468), 54/16-D Ravi Niketan, Jaddumandi Road, is a few blocks from the Old City area. It is a good place in a quiet area. It has rooms for Rs 175/300. The owner is a very knowledgeable and helpful person, and if this is important to you, this is the place to stay. It is a recommended place, if you don’t mind staying out of the main Old City area.
Hotel Ganges (321-097), Dasa­swa­medha Road, has rooms for Rs 275/350 and Rs 500/5500 with A/C. It is set back a little from the road.
Seema Hotel (352-686) 37/42 Baradev, has rooms with bath and a TV for Rs 350/400 and Rs 550/600 with A/C.
Alka Hotel (232-8445; Email: hotelalka@hotmail.com), D 3/23, Meerghat, overlooking the Ganges, is a good place with rooms for Rs 750/850. It is one of the best hotels in the area. The area around this hotel did not look so safe for a woman to walk alone at night.

Other Areas
GM Guest House (361-292), 1 Chandrika Colony, Sigra, is a little away from the Old City area. It has large, clean, budget and middle range rooms and is a very good value.
Hotel Faran is a good place.
Hotel Temple on Ganges (312-340), Asi Ghat, is a recommended place which is located in a good peaceful location. Some of the rooms have a great view of the Ganges. It has nice clean rooms for Rs 350/500. There are yoga lessons here and they can arrange a good guide for the city. It is a good distance from the Old City area. It has a rooftop veg restaurant.

Where to Stay—High
Hotel de Paris (346-601; fax 348-520), The Mall, in the Cantonment area, has a spacious garden and good, large comfortable rooms for Rs 900/1100, some with A/C. It is an older building that is starting to show its age.
Hotel Clarks Varanasi (234-8501, fax 234-8186), The Mall, in the Cantonment area, is an old famous building with atmosphere, dating to the British era. It also has a modern extension and a good swimming pool open to non-guest (Rs 200). Rooms costs $80/100. It is the best place in town.
Next to the Hotel Clarks is the new three-star Hotel Best Western Ideal (348-091; fax 348-685), which has good, comfortable, modern, spacious rooms for Rs 1500/1800. It has a good restaurant. It has free airport transfer. It is a well-managed, recommended place at a reasonable price.
Hotel Taj Ganges (234-5100; fax 234-8067), Nadesar Palace Grounds, is the most opulent place in town with rooms ranging from $120/140 up to $250. It has excellent facilities including tennis courts, a pool and yoga classes. The best rooms have a view of the pool.
The four-star Hotel Varanasi Ashok (346-020; fax 348-089), The Mall, Cantonment area next to Hotel Clarks, has a quiet location with air-conditioned rooms for Rs 1700/2700. It has a pool and a nice large garden. The best rooms have a view of the pool. It has a good restaurant.
The four-star Hindustan International (351-484; fax 350-931), C21/3 Maldahiya, in the center of the city, has a pool and modern comfortable rooms for $40/75. It is a business-type hotel.

Star Hotels
Sl. No. Hotel Address and Phone No. Of Rooms No. Of Beds
1. Hotel Taj Ganges Nadesar, Ph.-091-542-2503001 130 260
2. Hotel Radisson The Mall ,Cantoment 117 234
3 Hotel Clarks The Mall ,Cantoment 58 116
4 Hotel Sidhartha Sigra Ph-2221961 32 64
5

Hotel Hindustan International
Maldahiya Ph.- 091-542-2393012 85 170
6 Hotel India Nadesar 80 160
7 Hotel De-Paris The mall ,Cantoment, Ph.-091-542-2505133 50 100
8 Hotel Vaibhav Ph.-091-542-2507593 58 116
9 Hotel Meredian Grant Patel Nagar 41 82
10 Hotel Pradeep Lahurabir, Ph.-091-542-2204594 36 72
11 Hotel Pallavi International - 43 86

Deluxe Hotels
Sl. No. Hotel Address and Phone No. Of Rooms No. Of Beds
1. Gautam Grand Pared Kothi, Ph.-091-542-2206886 36 72
2. Rashmi Guest House Maan Mandir, Dasaswmegh 14 28
3 Kaumesh Hut Jagatganj, Ph.-091-542-2202689 20 40
4 Hotal Malti Ph.-091-542-2222895 47 94
5 Hotal M.M. International Bulanala 16 31
6 Hotal Gangej Dasaswmedh 32 70
7 Hotal Gautam Ram Katora, Ph.-091-542-2206450 37 74
8 Hotal Daimond Bhelupur, Ph,-091-542-2276696 - -
9 Hotal New International Lahurabir, Ph.-091-542-2208507 30 60
10 Parytak Awas Grih Ph.-091-542-2208413 40 46
11 Parytak Awash Grih Sarnath, Ph.-091-542-2595965 10 38
12 Hotal Sarin In Mahmoorganj 16 28
13 Hotal Tample On Gangej Assi 27 54
14 Hotal Rigency Andhrapul 41 66
15 Hotal Padmini International Mahmoorganj, Ph.-091-542-2220079 40 80
16 Hotal J.K. International Luxa 22 42
17 Hotal Lara India Dashaswmegh 25 50
18 Hotal Surya The Mall, Ph.-091-542-2508465/6 45 90
19 Hotal Baradari Maidagin 17 30
20 Hotal Ashok Sigra, Ph.-091-542-2221058 28 56
21 Hotal Salimar The Mall, Ph.-091-543-2501888 17 34
22 Hotal Awnish Maldahiya 21 42
23 Hotal Narendra G.T. Road, Ph.-091-542-2208121/3 54 116
24 Hotal Alka Mirghat, Ph.-091-542-2308445 20 37
25 Hotal Varuna Gulabbag 17 54
26 Hotal Gaurav Phatmaan road 18 34
27 Hotal Kashika West Western The Mall, Ph.-091-542-2301011 40 80
28 Palesh On Gangej Asshi, Ph.-091-542-2204963 22 44
29 Hotal Shiwam Pared Kothi 26 52

Economy Hotels
Sl. No. Hotel Address and Phone No. Of Rooms No. Of Beds
1. Preeti Guest House Maldahiya 14 28
2. Sai Kripa Guest House Shivala 16 32
3. Ambika Lodge Englishia Line 12 24
4. Hotel Ridge Lodge Varuna Pul, Cantoment 8 16
5. SriRam International BansFatak 20 40
6. Pawan Guest House Parade Kothi 7 16
7. Rashmi Guest House ManMandir, Dashashwamegh 14 28
8. Hotel Deewan Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 27 71
9. Shiva Visram Bhavan Luxa 7 11
10. Garden Lodge Godowlia 34 70
11. Hotel Prabhat Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 7 13
12. Hotel Moti Mahal Godowlia 7 17
13. Mint House Motel Nadesar 12 24
14. Hotel Samman Dashashwmegh 18 38
15. Satyanarayan Lodge Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 30 48
16. Hotel Ganges Dashashwamegh 32 70
17. Hotel Buddha Ramkatora, Lahurabir 22 44
18. Hotel Temple Town Patel Nagar 9 20
19. SriRam Vishram Bhavan Luxa 10 18
20. Hotel Gautam Ramkatora, Lahurabir, Ph-(0542)-2206450 37 74
21. Shankari Tourist Lodge MirGhat 5 13
22. Hotel Awadh Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 21 36
23. Girnar Lodge Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 24 46
24. SriRam Lodge Englishia Line 10 16
25. Vishnu Rest House Pandey Ghat 20 46
26. Hotel Friends House Dashashwamegh 6 15
27. National Lodge Kashi Vidyapith Road 11 19
28. Hotel Modern Lahurabir 21 42
29. Murali Guest House Bhogabir, Near BHU 19 23
30. Sundaram Guest House Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 24 48
31. Hotel Yamuna Luxa 23 44
32. Dashaswamegh Lodge Dashashwamegh 19 35
33. Palki Atithi Grih Parade Kothi 16 22
34. Dashaswamegh Boarding House Dashashwamegh 22 57
35. Hotel Vishnu Priya Near Cantt. Rly. Station 12 21
36. Sita Guest House Chausatti Ghat 20 36
37. Ashok Lodge Chetganj 9 17
38. Sun Blue Lodge Kedar Ghat 8 12
39. Hotel Jyoti Luxa 24 50
40. Anand Lodge Pared Kothi, Near Cantt. Rly. Station 13 22
41. Sri Venkateshwar Lodge Vishwanath Gali, Godowlia 27 35
42. Gokul Lodge Sonarpura 11 20
43. Hotel SunRise Shivala 18 33
44. Hotel Samrat Nai Sarak 13 25
45. Kedar Lodge AgastKunda 23 40




ITDC Varanasi Ashok
The Mall,
Tel :(542)46020-30
Fax : 0542-348089.

Hotel Hindustan International
C21/3 Maldahiya,
Tel : (542)351485-90
Fax : 0542-350931

Hotel Taj Ganges
C21/3 Maldahiya,
Tel :(542)351485-90
Fax : 0542-350931.

Hotel Clarks
The Mall,
Tel :(542)348501-10
Fax : 0542-348186.

Hotel Ideal Tops
The Mall,
Tel :(542)348091-92
Fax : 0542-348685.

Hotel India
59 Patel Nagar,
Tel :(542)43309,
Fax : 0542-342912.

Hotel Malti
Vidyapeeth Road,
Tel :(542)356844, 351395. Hotel Pallavi International
Hathwa Place
Chetganj,
Tel :(542)356939-42,
Fax : 0542-322943.
.
Hotel de-Paris
The Mall,
Tel : (542)46601-8,
Fax : 0542-348520.
Hotel Pradeep
Jagatganj,
Tel : (542)344963, 344594,
Fax : 0542-334898.

Other Accommodation

Railway Retiring Rooms
Varanasi Cantt.
Railway Station

U.P.T.D.C. Tourist Bungalow
Parade Kothi, Cantt.,
Tel : (542)43413.
U.P.T.D.C. Tourist Bungalow
Sarnath. Paying Guest Accommodation
‘The Nest’,
C/o, Mr. S K Roy,
B 21/122 A2,
Kamachha, near Baijnath Mandir
Tel : (542)360137.
BUDGET HOTELS IN VARANASI


Hotel Vaibhav

Hotel Vaibhav, newly built is Certified Three Star Hotel in Varanasi.. It shows the beautiful and clam look the Hotel gives. Reception, Rooms, Restaurant and Bar- all very classic

Hotel Pradeep

This Hotel is what one must see to appreciate the real essence of the Hotel. Its unique traditional design, the atmosphere of ambience that it mantains with excellent service. It has truly good looking rooms at relatively much lower rates.It is one of the most likeable places to stay in the city.

Hotel Temple on Ganges

Located on Assi Ghat this hotel gives an excellent veiw of the long string of Ghats along the Ganges.The dim red,blue lights on roof-top give a majestic image to the hotel in the night.You can see, feel the sunview. All rooms have windows that not only give refreshing, healthy and pollution free air but also a beautiful view of Holy Ganges. And more. All rooms have Balcony where you can take the breath taking view in your own privacy.

Hotel Varuna

Located centrally in the city the hotel is opposite Sigra Police Station. The hotel's main essence is its ever-expanding facilities that includes conference room, swimming pool in the near future. Check out the Hotel to see the dynamic nature that it possess. Credit Cards Master Card, Visa Card, Bob Card, CitiBank and American Express, Phone STD/ISD facility, Travel Tickets, Doctor, Safe Deposit, Laundary Services

Hotel Alka

Next to Golden Temple on the Meer ghat, this hotel is class apart.There is open space to sit and feel the Ganges. The restaurant veiw captures the beauty of the Ganges. Rooms are where you relax ! Value added facilities make your stay more enjoyable. Hotel Alka mantains an excellent atmosphere of ambience with all value added facilities that you could ask besides a comfortable room. We have 15 well furnished rooms, with hot/cold shower facility 24 hrs. a day.

Hotel Barahdari

Although it is stone throw distance from town area and ten minutes walk to the Ganges, the Peace and 'Shanti' can be felt in the Hotel. See the Hotel with its beautiful garden. All rooms are attatched with European Style Bathrooms, having 24 hrs. hot and cold water. Reception has a unique texture on it's walls, with an exclusive Help Desk for any assistance or enquiry. The Pleasing color gives you a more relaxed feeling. The Texture Effects have been created by the traditional artists of Varanasi. This reminds you of how art and culture has flourished in this ancient city.

Hotel Arya

This is clean and very approachable hotel on the Main road, next to Goudalia at Sonarpura. The Hotel's pride is it's beautiful roof top restaurant, serving continental and South Indian Food. Managed by N.R. Naidu, has good staff and very well mantained. Shopping complex is just under the hotel, with a medicine shop also owned by the Hotel itself. Roof Top Restaurant is simply the best in Varanasi. With all its eloquent beauty, excellent atmosphere and soothing music it has a great Menu list. Covers Breakfast, Lunch and Dinnes with all varieties in Indian, Continental and South Indian Dishes

Trimurti Guest House

Yes, here is the guest house in the old city, giving you something unique to see- from every room you can see Golden Temple and the mosque.The roof gives long distance veiw of the city-BHU Temple,DLW Chimney. East West Restaurant is clean one.

Hotel Son Many

The key feature is from this guest house you can see the "Burning Ghat" and all rituals associated from all of your rooms. The Ganges water can be viewed from every part of the Hotel. This hotel proposes to have five floors, with all the modern facilities. Wow! Just for you, Hotel Son Mony is just on top of the HarishChandra Ghat.

Hotel Sunrise

Very clean Hotel at Pandey Haveli. Is centrally located between BHU and Golden Temple. Has electric cold and hot shower supply. The key feature is its roof top from where you can see most of Varanasi including Ganges.

BUDGET HOTELS IN VARANASI


Hotel Buddha

The most spacious rooms (with high ceilings) in the town at an affordable price of 110 to 310 Rs. for single travellers, and 150 to 350 for doubles. Rooms are equiped with telephone facilities and colour TV. Next it has a peaceful garden restaurant. Facilities include 24 hrs. hot & cold water, Air ticketing, Bus/Train reservation

Hotel Ajaya

All rooms attatched with running Hot & cold water, with telephone. Hotel Ajaya rooms cost between Rs. 150 to 450 for single, and Rs. 200 to 500 for double.

Sandya Guest House

Located Shivala Ghat, its on the main road and very central. See Ganga, Assi Ghat, Benares Hindu University, Monkey Temple- all are walking distance from this place. Features it has- Roof top restaurant, library, ticket booking.

Hotel Gautam

Location at Ramkatora. Its away from the main road of the city at a peaceful site. It is delux 5 storeyed centrally air conditioned hotel located 10 minutes from Cantt Rly station, 30 mins. from Airport and 0.75 Km from River Ganges.

Ganpati Guest House

This is for the most spectacular veiw on Ganga away from the hustle and bustle of the city.And there is a seperate staircase built specially for you to go and stand right next to Holy Ganges.Besides, it is next to Golden Temple.

Sahi Riverview Guest House

Newly opened the Guest House has the most fascinating Ganges views(See Name) and the exotic sunrise from its balconies, rooms and terrace. Location is right on Assi Ghat,next to Harmony Book Shop. All rooms have 24 hrs hot water with attatched bathrooms. You will get a very homely touch. Monkey Temple, Tulsi Manas Temple, BHU and Red Fort are very approachable.

Musical Guest House

Near Assi crossing as its name suugests there is music in it.Every Tuesday at 7.30p.m. concert is held.Plus if you want to learn local vocal and instrumental music teaching facility can be made available in the guest house.This small guest house has 5 rooms with attatched bathroom.

Om Vishwanath Lodge

The Lodge, beautifully decorated from outside, is located off the Main Road at Sonarpura.The advantage is it is located near River Ganges and has a beautiful roof top restaurant. All 18 rooms have attatched bath running Hot and Cold Shower. Yoga Lesson facilities are available.Further, the Lodge has Pooja Silk Handicrafts- a Specialist of Bed Spreads. The shop has a range of Handwoven Silk Brocades, Printed Sarees, Scarfs etc

Sita Guest House

Its on Ganges at the Main Ghat.The beauty lies in it being so close to Ganges that you feel you can literally touch the river with your hands. Address: Chausatti Ghat, Bengalitola. It has 20 rooms with hot shower.Note that telephone incoming facility is free.Besides Air ticketing is available-'Easy Travel Services'. Also tickets for Nepal etc. possible.

Shiva Ganga Lodge

Hanuman Ghat is very close to the Burning Ghat-"Harish Chandra Ghat". So, Safari Guest House provides an appropriate location to see "Burning Ghat". It has everything- veg and non veg. food served in the restaurant, cold drinks and good tour guides.


Varanasi (Benares, Kashi)

Pop: 1.2 million Area
Phone Code: 0542
Postcode 221002

Varanasi is said to be the oldest inhabited city in the world. There are supposed to be 2,000 temples in Varanasi. It is 125km east of Allahabad, on the bank of the Ganges, between Delhi (710km) and Calcutta (680km). Millions of pilgrims a year come to Varanasi.

The name Varanasi most likely stems from the two rivers, Varuna and Asi, which join the Ganges on the north and south borders of the city. Varanasi is a very fast-moving place and at times can seem unbelievable crowded. In the old part of the city there are numerous mazes of thin, very crowded streets, which makes the place very interesting.
It is said that the first Siva Jyotirlinga, the fiery pillar of light, came through the earth here and flared into the sky. Therefore Varanasi is also called Kashi, “City of Light.”

Kashi is mentioned in the Mahabharata, Ramayana, Srimad Bhagavatam, and the Puranas, which date back 5,000 years, as the foremost city of Siva. The Muslims gave it the name Benares. At Independence, the old name, Varanasi, was given to the city again.

Many older people come to Varanasi to die and to be burned at the burning ghats along the river. It is believed that anyone who dies in Varanasi attains moksha (liberation). It is said that being burned at Varanasi adds to the pious credits of someone, therefore many bodies are brought here to be cremated. Many widows come here to die.
Many saints and sages have come to Varanasi including Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, the Buddha, Sankaracharya, and Sri Ramanuja. Sri Chaitanya met Sanatana Gosvami here and converted Prakasananda Sarasvati and his followers here. He bathed at Pancha-ganga (Panchanada) Ghat.
For many, it is one of the highlights of a trip to India to get on a boat at 6 am and see the city on the waters of the Ganges at sunrise. Six o’clock in the morning is the best time to visit the waterfront. It is a good idea to rent your own boat and not go with many other people.

Varanasi was looted numerous times by Muslim invaders beginning from the 11th century. Aurangzeb destroyed most of the temples during his reign in the 17th century. This is why most of the temples are not more than 300 years old. In 1669 the Bindu Madhava Vishnu Temple and the Siva Visvanath Temple were destroyed. Mosques were built in their place.

The Ganges, which normally flows southeast, reverses its course and flows north for a while at Varanasi, which is considered very auspicious. There is a five-mile parikrama path that goes around this sacred city. There are 81 bathing ghats and other holy kunds, or sacred tanks. It is said that it is important to bathe at Manikarnika, by the cremation ghat.

The three most important ghats are Manikarnika, Dasaswamedha, and Pancha-ganga. To bath at these three ghats is called Tri-tirtha Yatra. Also important are Asi Sangam and Varuna Sangam. To bathe in these five places is call Pancha-tirtha Yatra. You are supposed to bathe in these five ghats in a certain order. First you bathe in Asi Ghat, then Dasaswamedha Ghat, then the ghat by the Adi Keshava Temple near the Varuna River, then Pancha-ganga, and then Manikarnika. After taking bath at these five places, most pilgrims then go for darshan of Visvanath, Annapurna, and Sakshi Vinayaka (the witnessing Ganesh). It is said that if you bathe in these five places, all in the same day and in this order, you will not get another material body. You can do Pancha-tirtha Yatra by boat, but it is better to do it by foot.

The Panchakroshi road goes around the city of Varanasi. Many pilgrims walk the 58km around Varanasi starting at Manikarnika Ghat. They then walk to Asi Ghat and then proceed around the city. You are supposed to visit 108 shrines along the way. Following this procedure is said to be the same as circling the entire world.

The Adi Keshava Vishnu Temple is located where the Ganges meets the Varuna River, in the north of town. Tulasi Das translated the Ramayana from Sanskrit into Hindi in Varanasi, and there is a temple in his honor.

Sarnath is 10km away and is famous as the place where Buddha first preached about enlightenment. You can see all the principal places in Varanasi and Sarnath in two days, but it is not unusual for people to spend a week or two in Varanasi.

Orientation
The city of Varanasi is on the west bank of the Ganges River. The tourist office and the higher-end hotels are located in the Cantonment area, in the northern part of the city. The roads are much wider here. The railway station is south of the Cantonment area and north of the old part of the city, about a twenty minute auto-rickshaw ride from either area.

The old section of the city, by the river, is where the bathing ghats and most of the temples are located. The streets can be very narrow and crowded, so much so that a bike rickshaw cannot get by. The main bathing ghat is Dasaswamedha, which is located right in the middle of the old part of the city.

Tourist Offices and Tours
A good source of information is the Government of India Tourist Office (234-3744; Web Site: http://www.tourisminindia.com), 15B The Mall, in the Cantonment, by the Hotel de Paris. You can hire a guide there for either four (Rs 250) or eight hours (Rs 400). Open weekdays 9 am to 5.30 pm, and Sat 9 am to 1 pm. There is an Information Counter at the airport. They also have a tourist counter inside the railway station (234-6370).

The UP State Tourist Office (220-8162) is located in the Tourist Bungalow at Parade Kothi (Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm) and there is a good tourist counter at the railroad station (234-6370) (6 am to 8 pm). They have a list of paying guest accommodations.

The Bihar State Tourist Office (234-3821) is at Englishia Market, Sher Shah Suri Marg, Cantonment.

UPSRTC has a daily tour of the river, temples, and Benares Hindu University in the summer from 5.30 to 11.45 am and winter 6 am to 12.15 pm. They also have a tour to Sarnath and Ramnagar Fort daily from 2.30 to 6.30 pm in the summer and 2 to 6 pm in the winter. The bus starts at the Govt of India Tourist Office, The Mall, and at the Tourist Bungalow.

Rewarding Tours and Travels (348-546), next to the Tourist Office in the Cantonment, offers a tour of the city, which includes a pickup at a hotel, an early morning boat ride, a visit to some temples and a trip to Sarnath. It costs Rs 200 and goes from 5.30 am to noon.

I found a good knowledgeable guide named Shobhit Shankar for information about the temples and holy places in Varanasi. He is a saintly priest at the Visvanath Temple and he lives on the same small alley as the temple is located, at 35/15 Vishwanath Gali. I personally liked and trusted him. He also has a very high understanding of the Vedic scriptures.

Information
Heritage Hospital (231-3977), near Benares Hindu University, is a good private hospital. Gupta Optical, in Godaulia is good for glasses.

Visa extensions may be issued at the Foreigners’ Registration Office (235-1968), Srinagar Colony, Siddgiri Bagh.

The GPO is a ten-minute rickshaw ride north of the old city. You can have a package made outside. The Central Telegraph Office is in the cantonment. There is a post office in the Hotel Clarks in the Cantonment.

You can get on the Internet at Fontac Computer for Rs 25per hour. The Meeting Place, a little before the Vishwanath Temple, has good connection and cheap prices (Rs 15 per hr).

Malaviya Bhavan at Benares Hindu University has courses on yoga. There are morning and evening yoga classes at the Shanti Guest House.

Some Swimiing Pools that non-guest can swim at are the Hotel Clarks Varanasi (Rs 200), Hotel Hindustan International (Rs 100), and the Hotel Varanasi Ashok (100). The Hotel Clark has the best pool.

At the Hotel Surya you can get a full body massage (Rs 150) and they have a steam bath (Rs 40).

Travel Corporation of India (46209), Hotel Clarks, The Mall, is an established travel agency and they can arrange cars. The ITDC Office in the Hotel Varanasi Ashok can arrange a car for Rs 600 a day.

WARNING! There are many armed robberies along the Ghats at night. Varanasi is known for people who have bad drug problems and they will stop at nothing to get their drugs. During the day or on the public street there are almost no problems. If you are sitting in a peaceful secluded place when it is getting dark, be especially careful. When you see the locals leave, follow their example. Also be careful about walking alone down secluded alleys at night in the old city.

Varanasi is also known for con-men. I was talking to an Indian student at the railway station and a policeman came up to us and told the man to stop talking with me. I told the policeman it was alright and that I trusted the student. The policeman then told me, “Don’t come to me later with a complaint.” I am assuming that he must get many of them. While traveling to Varanasi by train, be especially careful of your luggage, as many people have their bags stolen.

Boat Ride on the Ganges
For many people a boat ride on the Ganges is a highlight of their trip. Taking a 6 am boat ride while the sun is coming up is outstanding. There is an especially tranquil atmosphere and it is very enjoyable. I highly recommend this. If you come by rickshaw have them take you to

Dasaswamedha Ghat, where there are many boats. The government rate for a boat that holds four people is Rs 60 per hour. You will be asked for much more (Rs 60 a person), but in reality you can usually get a boat for Rs 40 per hour, especially in the off-season.

Money
The State Bank of India, near Dasaswamedha Ghat changes Thomas Cook travelers cheques. The State Bank of India, near the Hotel Surya in the Cantonment area, changes money. The Bank of Baroda (credit cards only) and the Andhra Bank, both on Dasaswamedha Rd, do cash advances on major credit cards. The Shanti Guest House changes money at a rate slightly lower than the bank. They change most types of travelers cheques and most foreign currencies.

Shopping
Varanasi is a good place to buy silks. You have to be careful, as many items sold as silk are not pure silk. It is also a good place to get musical instruments. People will come up to you and invite you to their house, which actually means to someone’s shop.

Temple Bazaar, near the Visvanath Temple, is a good place to get silk items. This is one of the busiest and most interesting bazaars in India.
The government managed Handloom House, D64/132K Sigra, is a reliable place to purchase silks.

Imtiyaz Ali, Siddh Giri Bagh, located near a mosque, makes good tablas. To get here you go down about three roads from Godaulia Crossing (going away from Dasasvamedha Ghat) and then make a right and go about 1km. Triveni Music Centre (328-074), Keval Gali in Godaulia, near the Baba Restaurant, sells good musical instruments.

Book Shops & Books
Universal Book Shop in Godaulia is one of the better bookshops in India and has a good selection. Nearby Indica Books, D 40/18 Godaulia, has an excellent selection of spiritual and other books and the people who manage it are very helpful. Ashok Hotel has a good book shop.

Benares: City of Light by Diana Eck, a professor at Harvard, is a good, detailed book which describes the temples and ghats in Varanasi.

OLD CITY

Visvanath Temple (Golden Temple)
This present temple dedicated to Lord Siva was built by Rani Ahalyabai Holkar of Indore in 1776. Aurangzeb destroyed the old temple in 1669. It is called the Golden Temple because of the 800 kg of gold plating put on the sikharas (roof over the altar) by Maharana Ranjeet Singh of Lahore in 1835. The Siva-linga of Visvanath is on a golden altar. There has been a Siva temple at this site for over 1,000 years. Beside the Siva-linga, there are several other shrines. To the left as one enters the temple is a Deity of Vishnu, who is supposed to be worshiped along with Visvanath. Non-Hindus (non-Indians) are not allowed in the temple, and this is strictly enforced.

Behind the temple is the Jnana Vapi (Gyan Kupor), or the Wisdom Well, which is said to be the liquid form of enlightenment. It is said to have been in Varanasi before the Ganges came to this earth. Pilgrims give their sankalpa, or statement of intent, here before beginning their pancha-tirtha yatra.

Non-Hindus can look inside the temple through a hole in the wall, in the alley between the front of the temple and the Jnana Vapi. From this hole you can get a good view of the Siva-linga and what is happening in the temple.

You can see the roof of the temple from the roof of the Trimurti Guest House or from some shops upstairs opposite the temple for Rs 10.

Jnana Vapi and Razia’s Mosques
Next to the temple is the Jnana Vapi Mosque. This mosque was built from the material taken from destroyed Hindu temples. In the back of the mosque you can see the remains of the temples. It has very high minarets.

The 13th century Razia’s Mosque is north of here. It was built during the period of the Delhi Sultanate, and is located where a previous Visvanath temple used to stand.

Old City Area Temples
A major temple, dedicated to Annapurna, is located in the same alley as the Visvanath Temple. Anna means “food,” and purna means “who fills.” There is a Food Festival here in Oct/Nov.

Nearby is a black deity of Shani (Saturn) covered with silver. People worship at this temple, especially on Saturday, to free themselves of the bad effects of Saturn. Astrologically the effects of Saturn usually bring misfortune.

Dhundhiraj Ganesh is a small important Ganesh temple on Visvanath Lane, about a five-minute walk from the Visvanath Temple.

Sakshi Vinayaka is a Ganesh deity. Sakshi means “the witness.” After finishing the Panch Kosi circuit, pilgrims come before this deity so that Ganesh can witness the completion of their pilgrimage.

When pilgrims visit Varanasi they register their arrival at the Bhairava Temple. This temple is located near the intersection of Chauli Rd and Kabir Chaura Rd, near the Godaulia area. Bhairava is known as the policemen-magistrate and protector of the city. Bhairava is the terrifying aspect of Lord Siva, who chopped off the fifth head of Brahma. As punishment for doing this the head stuck to the hand of Bhairava and stayed there for years. It did not fall off until he reached Varanasi. Bhairava then became responsible for making sure that the residents of Varanasi live righteous lives. Nearby is the Bare Ganesh Temple, which is one of the main Ganesh temples in Varanasi.

Durga Temple
These two temples are both located in the southern part of town, between Asi Ghat and Benares Hindu University. The Durga Temple was built in the 18th century by a Bengali king and has many aggressive monkeys. Durga is the intense form of Lord Siva’s consort Parvati. Non-Hindu can enter the courtyard but are not supposed to enter the inner sanctum.

Sankat Mochan Temple
The Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to Hanuman, the “Liberator from Troubles.” Many people consider this to be one of the three major temples in Varanasi.

Benares Hindu University & Museum
This university was established at the beginning of the century and is famous for having an excellent Sanskrit school. It has over 150,000 rare manuscripts. It is about 11km from the center of the city, a 20-minute auto-rickshaw ride away.
It has one of the best museums in India, the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum, which has ancient sculptures and deities in it. The museum has various sections—bronze and cast metal, terracotta, and stone sculptures. There is also a painting gallery that contains a big statue of Krishna holding Govardhan Hill, dating from the fourth century. There are also two 18th century paintings on the same subject. Open 11 am to 4 pm, July to April, and 7.30 am to 12.30 pm in May and June. Closed on Sunday. Admission is Rs 100. Rs for a camera.

New Visvanath Temple
The New Visvanath Temple is a beautiful marble temple located on the grounds of Benares Hindu University. It was planned by Pandit Malaviya and built in 1966 by the Birla Family. It is open to everyone. Inside the temple is a Siva-linga. The temple is supposed to be a replica of the original Visvanath temple that Aurangzeb destroyed.
Open 4 am to noon and 1 to 9 pm. It is a 30-minute auto-rickshaw ride (Rs 30) from the old city.

Tulasi Manas Temple
This is a modern, marble, sikhara-type temple dedicated to Tulasi Das, who wrote the Ram-charit Manas, the Hindi translation of the famous Ramayana. He lived in Varanasi when he wrote it. It was built in 1964. On the walls of the temple are verses and pictures from the Ramayana. There is a diorama exhibit on the 2nd floor. Open 5.30 am to noon and 3.30 to 9 pm.

Bharat Mata Temple
This temple is dedicated to Bharat Mata which means “Mother India.” Bharat is the Hindi word for India. Inside the temple is a marble relief map of India. Mahatma Gandhi opened the temple.

Ramnagar Fort
South of the city, across the river, is the interesting 17th century Ramnagar Fort. It was built by Maharaja Balwant Singh and is the former home of the Maharaja of Varanasi. The Royal Museum, in the fort, displays arms, decorated palanquins, gold-plated elephant howdahs, and outfits of former Maharajas of Varanasi. There is a temple dedicated to Veda Vyasa, the author of the Mahabharata, in the Ramnagar Fort. It is said that Veda Vyasa stayed at Ramnagar for a short time. Open daily except Friday 9 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm. It is reached by a pontoon bridge, and during the monsoon you cross the river by ferry.

Entertainment and Music
At Nagari Natak Mandali there are classical concerts.

At the International Music Centre Ashram, near Dasaswamedha Ghat, there are classical music performances on Wed and Sat at 8 pm. You can take private sitar and tabla lessons here for Rs 75 per hour.

Clark’s Cultural Program, Raja Ghat, has an evening program which begins with a Ganga arati (worship), and then has drama from the Ramayana, music, and folk and classical dance for $10 (5.30 to 8.30 pm). The program can be reserved at the Clark Varanasi (348-501; fax 348-186).

Triveni Music Centre, Kevl Gali in Godaulia, near the Baba Restaurant, is a good place to take sitar and tabla lessons.

Festivals
During the month of April pilgrims perform circumambulation of Kashi Dharmaksetra (Varanasi). Ganga Dasara, in May, celebrates the day the Ganges reached Haridwar. In Oct/Nov, Nagna­thaiya at Tulasi Ghat reenacts Krishna dancing on the head of the Kaliya snake in the Yamuna.

Bharat Milap at Nati Imli is the celebration of the meeting of Rama and Bharata after 14 years of separation. The Maharaja of Varanasi attends this interesting festival and rides on the back of an elephant. Ram Lila, at Ramnagar Fort in Sept/Oct, is a festive program during which the Ramayana is staged.